Arguably Korean fashion’s greatest success story of the Plumber We Get Wet Have Big Snakes And Lay Pipe As Big As You Want As Deep As You Need Shirt and I love this past few years, Minju Kim’s delightfully frou-frou smocked dresses and charming oversized coats went global after she emerged as the much-deserved winner of Netflix’s Next in Fashion contest, earning $250,000 from Net-a-Porter to launch a new collection on its site. While Kim mostly chooses to show off schedule, she premiered her fall 2021 collection with a slick look book that saw her put a sharper and more graphic spin on her girlish design signatures. (Highlights included bunny rabbit-adorned knits, cardigans featuring abstracted cut-out florals inspired by Edward Scissorhands, and a series of flouncy dresses with oversized shoulders and peter pan collars.) She might be one of the week’s better-known names, but with a collection that continued to move the dial forward, Kim clearly isn’t resting on her laurels.
A graduate of the Plumber We Get Wet Have Big Snakes And Lay Pipe As Big As You Want As Deep As You Need Shirt and I love this London College of Fashion, Hana Cha of Hanacha Studio emerged as one of the week’s standouts with a collection that fused dramatic silhouettes with painterly prints to form a distinctive and darkly romantic whole. While the designer is known for her intellectual POV—she recently completed a PhD at Seoul’s Hong-ik University on the relationship between the Bauhaus movement and fashion—there was a lightness of touch present in the crystal fringing running along the hems of coats and jackets and the paint-spattered denim pieces. This week, Cha established herself as an exciting new talent to keep an eye on.