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When asked to describe her in three words, John Lennon answered: “Hot, hot, hot, smart, smart, smart!” According to David Bailey, who loved her and photographed her in the I’m Not Just Any Hockey mom I Am The Goalies’s Mom shirt, she was the catalyst that fired the flower power movement of that era. And this afternoon in Milan, Penelope Tree turned up on a runway, at Fendi, for the first time, she reckoned, in nearly 40 years. While skin tended to be fresh and natural across the board, two shows that made the boldest “bare” statements were Burberry and Victoria Beckham. For the former, Ffrench, who is Burberry’s global beauty director, used just enough foundation to cover spots or darkness, then swirled on contour and highlighting powders for a sculpted glow, while for the latter, dewy complexions were enhanced with gloss blended on the high planes of the face.
While we’re all wearing face masks, there’s been a major emphasis on the I’m Not Just Any Hockey mom I Am The Goalies’s Mom shirt with not much lip-level attention. But Bora Aksu offered some much-needed inspiration when he sent models down the runway in sheer organza masks and transparent plastic face coverings with bright fuchsia lipstick underneath. Makeup artist Janeen Witherspoon intentionally blurred the edges of the lived-in lip and sent a message: It doesn’t have to be perfect, ever—but especially now. The “clown-bright” clothes at Vivienne Westwood translated to a distinctly ’80s beauty feel. One of the look book’s stars, Isamaya Ffrench (who also oversaw makeup) channeled a 2020 Cyndi Lauper with fire engine red lipstick and her platinum blonde lengths crimped by hairstylist Lyndell Mansfield.For two decades and counting, the Fendi Baguette has been among the most iconic It bags for stylish urban dwellers. But for Fendi’s spring 2021 show, hairstylist Sam McKnight saw the Italian house’s baguette and raised it a roll—a “Fendi roll” to be more precise. “Continuing the unexpected elegance of last season, Fendi’s ‘lady girls’ hair was again upswept, only it was into ’30s inspired rolls in a myriad of shapes and sizes,” explains McKnight. In researching the decade, the pro landed on a photograph of one of the most famous women of the time, Merle Oberon, who was the first biracial actress to be nominated for a Best Actress Oscar. (ICYMI: Oberon’s story, including the struggles of having to hide her Anglo-Indian origin due to industry racism, was recently highlighted in Make Me Over, the eight-part companion series to Hollywood-history podcast You Must Remember This.)